英国皮革学院学者浅谈皮革技术
关键词：皮革


leather was one of the first manufactured materials, and the leather Technologist can claim to be a member of an ancient profession.皮革是第一个制造材料，皮革技师也不能自称为一个成员，一个古老的行业。 The output and quality of leather has steadily increased and improved for at least the last 3,000 years, and for the last 100 years or so the UK has been a pioneer in the field of formal education and training in leather Technology.产量和质量的皮革稳步增加和改善，至少在过去3000多年，并在过去100年左右的时间里，英国一直是领域的先锋，正规教育和培训在制革技术。

Tanners convert the raw hides and skins of animals into leather.坦纳斯转换原料皮和兽皮的动物到皮革。 At its simplest, leather is hide or skin which has been treated so that it will not decay, and will last for hundreds of years.最简单的，皮革是隐藏或皮肤已处理这样才不会腐烂，而且会持续数百年来。 Every hide and skin is unique, and varies not only from species to species, but even between individual animals.每一个隐藏和皮肤都是独特的，不仅来自不同物种的物种，甚至个人之间的动物。 To these natural differences of grain pattern, stretching properties and strength, further features are added which tanners can tailor during processing, such as colour and softness.这些自然差异的粮食格局，拉伸性能和强度，进一步增加它的功能坦纳斯可以根据加工过程中，如颜色和柔软性。 The complexity of leather manufacture becomes apparent.复杂的皮革制造变得很明显。

leather is turned into a wide variety of articles - footwear, clothing, bookbinding, gloves, saddles, harness, belts, wallets, luggage, bags, gas meter diaphragms, driving belts, gaskets, hydraulic seals used in aircraft, rockets and underwater craft, upholstery including automobiles, sports goods and many others.皮革变成了各种各样的文章-鞋类，服装，书籍装订，手套，马鞍，利用，皮带，钱包，行李，箱包，煤气表膜片，驾驶带，垫圈，液压密封件用于飞机，火箭和水下工艺，包括汽车内饰，体育用品以及其他许多人。 Tanners keep the end use very much in mind, and since many of the uses are subject to fashion, such features as eye-appeal, colour, texture and drape, while difficult to quantify, are essential to success.坦纳斯保持的最终用途非常注意，因为许多使用受时尚，功能，例如眼上诉，颜色，质地和悬垂性，虽然难以量化，是必不可少的成功。 Using modern techniques of production engineering, tanners must retain the individuality of each skin and, without losing its appeal, produce leather to a degree of uniformity required by customers.利用现代技术的生产工艺，坦纳斯必须保留个性每个皮肤和，而不失去其吸引力，生产皮革一定程度的统一要求的客户。

Although the leather industry has a long history, the pace of change has been rapid in the twentieth century, and accelerating in the last decade.虽然皮革工业具有悠久的历史，变化的步伐已迅速在20世纪，并加快在过去十年。 The time required to process raw hide or skin to finished leather has decreased from over a year to a matter of days.所需要的时间进程隐藏或皮肤原料到成品皮革，下降至一年多来几天之内。 Quality, variety and consistency of product have improved in response to customer demand.质量，品种和产品的一致性得到改善针对客户的需求。

While remembering its craft past, the leather industry is now firmly established as a technology based on scientific principles.虽然其工艺记住过去，皮革业，现在坚定地确立为技术基础上的科学原则。 From the early 1900s, the scope and depth of knowledge of protein chemistry and of the other natural and synthetic products used in leather manufacture have advanced at an accelerating pace.从20世纪初，在广度和深度的知识，蛋白质化学和其他天然和合成产品中使用了先进的皮革生产在加快。 The leather Technologist has become familiar with a wide range of pure and applied sciences, and with the constitution and properties of many types of material.皮革技师已经熟悉了广泛的纯科学和应用科学，并符合宪法和性能的多种类型的材料。

To produce high quality leather, Technologists must understand the nature of the materials used, the way in which they react, the means of controlling this reactivity, and the methods of testing and analysing the finished product.为了生产出高质量的皮革，技术人员必须了解的性质，所用的材料，以何种方式作出反应的手段控制这种反应，和方法的测试和分析了成品。 With this knowledge as a basis, tanners must become familiar with all the practical tanning processes and machinery operations that are necessary to prepare the skins for tanning, the tanning process itself, and the many subsequent operations which determine thickness, softness, texture, colour and waterproof-ness of leather.掌握了这些知识，并在此基础上，坦纳斯必须熟悉所有的实际鞣制工艺和机械业务的必要准备的鞣皮，鞣制过程本身，和随后的多次行动确定的厚度，柔软度，质地，颜色和防水性皮革。

Many students choose a course of Higher Education without having explored the opportunities afforded by this fascinating, challenging and rewarding industry.许多学生选择课程的高等教育，而不必探讨所提供的机会这个迷人，充满挑战和回报行业。 This is surprising, since leather is very much a part of everyday life, and is always in demand for fashion, sport and comfort.这是令人吃惊，因为皮革是一个很有日常生活的一部分，并且始终是在要求时尚，运动和舒适。

Understanding the reactions and processes occurring during leather manufacture involves a fascinating blend of the strict disciplines of the pure sciences with the practicalities of the continuous batch production of a material whose aesthetic appeal must be maintained, whilst creating its utilitarian properties.理解的反应和处理过程中发生的涉及皮革制造迷人的揉合了严格的纪律的纯科学与实际的连续批量生产的材料制作美观必须维持，而创造的功利性。 The pure sciences involved are chemistry, physics, biochemistry and microbiology, combined with mechanical and chemical engineering, polymer sciences, statistics, computing and management.纯科学涉及的化学，物理，生物化学及微生物学，结合机械和化学工程，高分子科学，统计，计算和管理。

The successful student who possesses a qualification in leather Technology usually has no difficulty in finding a suitable post within the industry.成功的学生谁拥有皮革技术资格通常没有难以找到合适的职位行业内。 There are excellent opportunities for obtaining senior positions in the leather and allied industries in production, quality control, research, management and marketing.有极好的机会获得高级职位中的皮革及相关行业的生产，质量控制，研究，管理和市场营销。 These opportunities are available worldwide.这些机会都销售到世界各地。

Author: Dr Paul Richardson, British School of leather Technology, University College Northampton作者：保罗理查森博士，英国皮革技术学院，北安普顿大学学院